A Viennese Fly-by

After a mid-day stop in Salzburg, we arrived in a misty, industrial Vienna that was muted by Christmas. The streets were quiet and the shops abandoned. After checking in to a thankfully much roomier room, we headed out in search of food. The restaurant suggested to us was just closing, and so we headed off towards lights in the hope of anything remotely edible. We came across a burger place, and for the lack of choice were pretty satisfying.

The next day was our only day in Vienna, so we had a full day ahead. As Boxing Day (Or St Stephen's Day as it is in Austria) got off to a slow start, we had to do a touristy thing before the breakfast spots opened up. So we headed to the Belvedere Palace.

Sphinxes guard the facade to the Belvedere.

The stunning stairwell was deserted so early.

The former summer residence of art connoisseur Prince Eugene of Savoy, the baroque Belvedere now houses Austrian art from the Middle Ages to the present day and also the world's largest Gustav Klimt collection. A Viennese native, Klimt initiated the 'Moderne Galerie' in 1903, which has evolved into the present day Belvedere. Klimt's most famous work, the Kiss (Lovers), is the transcendent depiction of two lovers in an embrace that showcases his distinct personal style. He drew inspiration from both Japanese design and Byzantine mosaics and looked to other masters such as Auguste Rodin and Edvard Munch. His use of silver and gold is something which is only impressed upon you effectively in reality, and the juxtaposition of this ornamental effect with the delicate, realistic skin of the lovers is breathtaking.

I really loved this late 19th century Hans Makart panel called "The Five Senses" that together show the 'ideal female form' smelling, seeing, hearing, touching, and tasting. 

Because I am hilarious.

 

Klimt's 'Judith I' shows the biblical Judith as a femme fatale, holding the head of Holofernes, whom she beheaded after seducing him the night before he destroyed her home. The woman in the painting is modelled on his contemporary (and most defo more) Adele Bloch-Bauer, a Viennese socialite, who was the subject of other works. To confirm the subject as Judith, Klimt engaged his brother, Georg, make the incredible frame for him with “Judith and Holofernes” engraved on it. 

An unexpected and delicious bonus was that Jacques-Louis David's 'Napoleon Crossing the Alps' was in the castle also. As one of my most treasured historical characters, this particular painting has always been a favourite, and seeing it in person, again, proved the reproductions cannot do a masterpiece justice.

 

Below is the first of several gastronomical pictures for today, but I wouldn't include them unless they were worth it. This was breakfast in a cafe that was over 100 years old and the waiters wore tuxedos. The food at Cafe Goldegg was really healthy (a bonus) and the coffee was sublime (a necessity).

After breakfast, we joined a walking tour guided by a passionate Viennese woman who had grown up in the States.

Famous horse stables, right in the heart of the city.

Hitler stood on this balcony to declare the Anschluss.

This fab woman made kids (both sexes) go to school from 6 - 12 years of age. She was the mother of 16, one of whome was Marie Antoinette. 

This confectionery shop persuaded us to day-drink and used to make cakes for the Royal Family.

 After our time in the city, we headed to Schönbrunn Palace. The former summer residence of the Royal Habsburgs sprawls across huge gardens and includes a world famous and ancient 'Orangery' and the oldest zoo in Europe.

Neptune's fountain.

I'm including this picture because it's great.

The 'Gloriette' was stunning at dusk.

After the palace, we headed to Figlmüller Wollzeile, and waited in line for the 'best schnitzel in Austria' with its 100-year history of being 'the best'. And it was pretty good!

On our way back to the hostel, we came across this church, which had a mosaic roof, something I had never seen before. I was really taken with it and later discovered that the 12th century St. Stephen's Cathedral is the most important religious building in Vienna.