Milano Shopping

So where is the best fashion in the world? Mila-NO.

I was thrilled to be going to Milan. I had not been before, I heard the Duomo was impressive and we were going to a ballet a Teatro Alla Scala. We didn't have a huge list of touristy things to do, so we planned to get in a decent amount of shopping. We wanted to hit the boutiques and get a treat. I was happy to spend a wee bit for a really nice dress. And we both needed to up our wardrobe game for the ballet.

But, generally, Milan was a letdown. I will try to use dry humour and to find the positives, so as not to write a terrible post.

Upon our first foray into town, we walked through Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Italy's oldest shopping mall (1865).

The gorgeous Galleria spilt us out for a dusk view of Milan's Duomo. The largest church in Italy (just scraping in there as 'St Peter's' is technically in another country) took a staggering 6 centuries to complete, with the last gate being put in place in 1965.  Considering there was close to 70 architects and engineers over the years, and it's construction coincided with the rise and fall of different monarchies, revolutions and a couple of World Wars, the faithful Gothic architecture is surprising. In contrast, the architectural integrity of the Duomo in Florence couldn't even hold up against an artistic renaissance.

That night we ate at a restaurant recommended to us by our lovely Airbnb host, and my half and half pizza came out in a heart shape! I think it was meant to be shared by a couple in love. Yes. I ate the whole thing.

The next morning, we visited the Duomo in earnest, paying to go inside and up to the roof. The Milanese say it is a rare day in foggy Milan to clearly see the Gold Madonna seated on the 108.5m spire, and it seems as though we were to be lucky. The first blue, sunfilled day of our trip was a stunning backdrop to the spires that clawed at the sky.

This exciting statue features Saint Bartholomew Flayed (1562), by Marco d'Agrate, wearing his flayed skin thrown over his shoulders like a stole. Hmm.

Climbing to the 'terraces' we were greeted by a view of Milan, but the stunning flying buttresses stole the show.

In the early afternoon, we headed to the Convent of Santa Maria Delle Grazie for the undisputed highlight of Milan.

We were sealed in a climate controlled room with Leonardo's fresco, giving us space and time to really appreciate the 1490s Last Supper. Knowing the stress the art has been through (an ineffective modification of the classic fresco technique, humidity, bombing in WWII and probably the most damaging - subpar restoration efforts in the 18th and 19th centuries) I knew that it was in poor condition, and was therefore thrilled by how much I could see, and the unexpected vibrancy of the blues and reds. I loved it.

Inbetween the highlights I have already mentioned, Sarah and I wandered the shopping streets. Milan's offerings swung violently between Haute Couture for thousands of Euros and sweatshop messes for less than our lunch bill, usually already ripped or torn. There was nothing in the mid-range of 'reasonable quality and fashion'. My afternoon walk revealed more of this mess, but there were some street scenes that hinted at a vibrancy that I couldn't see.

Slinking back to the apartment, I resigned myself to finding something appropriate to wear to a world-class ballet at one of the most famous Opera Houses in the world. I pulled out my trusty blue dress, a seven-year-old sundress that makes it into every suitcase I pack based purely on its ability to resist wrinkles. Paired with my silver sparkly sneakers, bare legs and my sequined toilet bag as a 'clutch' I was ready. I practised "These are not sneakers, they are DIOR." in case I was questioned on my footwear.

The stunning interior of La Scala is worth the tickets alone. We were in the 'loggione' above the rows and rows of private boxes and having paid a price less than those around us, we were prepared for the restricted view of the stage. The seats were catastrophically uncomfortable and it was swelteringly hot, but La Dame aux Camélias was incredible, if a tad long.

Up early, for our flight, I spotted this Lego model of the Duomo.

Despite the incredible highlights, the time between climbing the Duomo or seeing the Last Supper between revealed Milan be lacking in the wealth of history, culture and vivacity of the other Italian cities we had been to. Disenchanted with the "Fashion Capital of the World", I was eager for our long stay in Paris.